While most people see September as a return to school, to normality, to structure, the fashion world sees a rebirth of a different kind

There’s no scene quite like the hubbub of fashion week: window-tinted Mercs plastered with magazine titles park like glossy beetles all over pavements, black cabs honk in frustration as roads are invaded by hordes of dressed-to-the-nines people paying no heed to the traffic; shouting paparazzi dressed all in black flash expensive cameras to capture the perfect candid snap. 

While most people see September as a return to school, to normality, to structure, the fashion world sees a rebirth of a different kind. Friday marked the beginning of five days of catwalk shows by over 80 designers who will be showcasing their collections for spring/summer 2019 to press, buyers, photographers and influencers.

This season is set to be one for the history books. For the first time, the British Fashion Council has declared London Fashion Week fur-free. Not a single designer on the schedule will show fur, making London the first of the big four fashion cities – New York, Paris, Milan – to shun the controversial fabric. 

The city will also welcome Victoria Beckham’s eponymous label to the London catwalks for the first time (something which has always baffled the British press, for a brand whose entire output is London-based), to celebrate 10 years of success; Alexa Chung will hold her first ever catwalk show for her namesake brand and Burberry’s new creative director, Riccardo Tisci will be showing his new vision for a heritage fashion house. 

The week also promises several see-now-buy-now collections from designers, that will allow the ever-impatient Instagram generation to buy products straight from the runways (who said fashion week wasn’t relevant to us laypeople?). 

Behold the biggest and the best shows from the first day of LFW SS19.

Ryan Lo

Saturn returns! is the name of Ryan Lo’s SS19 ready-to-wear collection. It felt more like the Wizard of Oz had returned as models walked the runway dressed in supersized red and pink witches hats designed by legendary milliner, Stephen Jones, carrying gilded broomsticks. There was even a tin man upon the arm of one model.

But behind the fairy tale accessories was a collection of wearable spring pieces, designed with the consumer in mind. 

A palette of pastel pinks, lilacs and creams saw button-front, Peter Pan-collared tea dresses, tulle skirts, embellished tops and floral trousers paired with pointed court shoes or calf-length boots. 

Patterns included florals (for spring? groundbreaking), little red polka dots and puff sleeves off-set by vixen-sharp scarlet manicures by Marian Newman.

Models walked slowly to ethereal music at an old publishing centre, Stationer’s Hall, down catwalks so thin they were close enough to touch. In fact, fashion journalist Hillary Alexander even did, at one point, give in to temptation and reach out to stroke a feathered pom-pom on the arm of an unsuspecting model. 

Clothes so good you can’t resist but grab at them? Now there’s something.